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| Silk history |
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THE LEGEND...
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The story tell us that, in 27th century B.C., the so-called Yellow Emperor,
Huang Ti,
ordered his wife Hsi Ling Shi to investigate what was eating the leaves of his mulberry tree.
She watched the tree an it was full of little white cocoons with a little warm inside. One of these
cocoons fell into her cup of tea, and she found out an endless thread unwinding because of
the heat.
Another more fantastic legend tell us about a girl in love with her horse. Her ungry father ordered
to kill both of them and hang his daugther from a tree, wrapped in the horse's skin. Soon after,
they were transformed into a warm spinning its cocoon, from which the girl came out when it opened.
She took the cocoon silk, sold it in the market, and nobody heard from her nevermore.
...AND THE SILK ORIGINS
In any case, Chinese people were the firsts to elaborate silk by methods kept in secret for a long
time, which made possible an important monopoly for centuries. So much so that it was forbidden to
get warms or mulberry seeds out from its frontiers, which was punished with death!
Even so, it is said that some Europeans suceeded, hiding them into their luggage. Another story
tell us about Khotan sovereign, in Asia, who married a Chinese princess who got silkwarm eggs out
in secrecy, hiding them into her hair, so that she could keep on wearing her luxurious silk dresses.
Seemingly, it all began 5000 years ago, when Chinese suceeded in domesticating
Bombix Mori (the
mulberry warm or silkwarm). It is thought that its breeding was entrust to women, represented by
the empress. Silk production spread out along China, specially in the lower Yellow (Huanghe) and
Yangtsé (Changjiang) basins, and the Bashu zone in Sichuan.
Silk envolved a great part of Chinese life for successive dynasties, not only relating to clothing,
but also artistic facets: literature, poetry, painting, sculpture and folklore. Silk has been found
in musical instrument strings, paper... Sure enough, there were silk books or
boshu, firstly
limited to intellectual groups because of their cost, and later made of a special silk, 73 cm wide,
red or black framed to indicate margins, which could be folded or rolled without distinction.
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| The Silk Road |
As early as in Roman empire, silk commerce was so important and expensive that
Justinian I
set custums limits. Seemingly, around 555 A.D. he sent two monks to Far East to steal
silkworm eggs by the Caucasus rout. They brought them secreted them in their walking sticks, but,
apparently they weren't of quality, and, as Justinian pretended an excesive monopoly, these were
the reasons why sericulture didn't prosper.
The next ones to try it where
sogdians,
good at agriculture and commerce, who trace the commercial routes between North China and the
rich countries from Western Asia.
Silk industry arrives to Spain by arabs in the 7th century A.D. The irrigated region of Murcia
was the most important silk center of European Middle Ages, with Granada, Toledo and Sevilla as
great factories and markets.
Arabs didn't allow cristians to sail to Indian Ocean: generally, Northern China regions were
accessible by land, surrounding Muslim empire, and Southern China regions were accessible by sea.
About the end of the 13th century,
sericulture
was already prosperous in Italy, monopolizing silk commerce with France, Germany and England
for long.
There are three main comunication and commerce routes between Asia extremes:
The first one in the north of Altai, by Barkul lake, Urumtsi, Talki port, Ili valley, Talas, and
then by Aral and Caspian seas, Caucasus and Minor Asia.
The other two routes are more known, from Han in Southern Tarim, joining at the passings which
cross Pamir dessert and come into China.
Marco Polo
travel stories were very spread, but neither in ancient times nor in Middle Ages, any of these
routes were named as
"silk road".
It was in 1907 when
Aurel Stein,
discovered
the Thousand Buddhas Grottoes,
where he found 5th and 6th centuries silks, so the interest about these routes increased
and they were given this name as a various routes compilation better than one way. These routes
were 10000 km long, and crossing them by caravans took about 7 years.
LYON SILKS
In the Middle Ages and Renaissance, European people liked to wear silks as a luxury symbol, but also there
were certain laws to decrease wearing costs and to make differences between upper and lower classes.
In 1450 Lyon obtained the silk commerce French monopoly. Sixteen years later, Louis XI ordered to
install Royal factories to produce silk there.
In 1545 the commercial society Lyon Fabric was founded, in which French and Italian people worked
for centuries. In spite of radical changes (such as Jacquard loom invention, new dyes or the
fashion start) it is still working.
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| From 20th century to present time |
At the beginning of 20th century, a great epidemic attacket silkworms. Up to 80% of Chinese
ones fell ill, so the breeding places had to recover from French and Italian ones.
Japan took advantage of it, becoming the first world-wide producer: at the beginning of the
Second World War, Japan provided the 90% of the world-wide raw silk production.
The 29's crisis and Japan invasion by China destroyed a lot of mulberry trees and spinnings.
Thus, in 1949 there were only 2 spinning factories where there were 100 before.
The new
chemical fibers invention (nylon, tencel) made silk to decrease its importance. However,
the current commercial scene and modern shipping facilities provide reasonable import costs
at present time.
Although silk commerce is the 0,2% of textile fibers market, the commercial value of silk and
its by-products is much bigger: silk price is about 20 times more than raw cotton. Its demand
has an historic origin, and in traditionally producing zones it is really high. That's why
in India, for instance, the second world-wide producer, exports are limited for this reason.
The current silk commercial scene show us Italy and France as big raw silk European importers
and as processed products exporters, such as scarfs, ties, garments or decoration elements
(curtains, murals, bedspreads, tapestry...). German commerce, concerned about quality and
ecology, is a big European textile market specially for silk, and Japan is the main consumer:
local production decreased radically, and now it depends to a large extent on imports (from
China in particular).
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